The Rolex Submariner is arguably one of the most iconic and recognizable watches ever created. Its robust design, timeless aesthetics, and unparalleled functionality have made it a favorite among divers, adventurers, and watch enthusiasts alike. Among the vast history of the Submariner, the 1999 "Swiss Only" models hold a special place. These timepieces represent a transitional period in Rolex's production, making them highly sought after by collectors and those with a keen eye for horological history. Let's dive into what makes the 1999 Swiss Only Submariner so unique, exploring its features, history, and why it continues to captivate watch lovers around the globe.

The Allure of the "Swiss Only" Dial

The "Swiss Only" designation on the dial of a Rolex Submariner refers to a specific detail in the watch's production history. During the late 1990s, Rolex underwent a change in its dial manufacturing process. Prior to this transition, Rolex dials were marked with "Swiss Made" at the very bottom, indicating the origin of the dial's components. However, due to changes in regulations regarding the use of tritium-based luminous material, Rolex temporarily switched to using only the word "Swiss" on the dial. This change occurred around 1998-1999, resulting in a limited number of Submariners, and other Rolex models, featuring this unique "Swiss Only" marking. For collectors, this small detail adds a significant layer of rarity and historical interest, making these transitional models highly desirable. The "Swiss Only" Submariners serve as a tangible reminder of a specific moment in Rolex's evolution, a time when the brand adapted to new standards and regulations while maintaining its commitment to quality and precision.

Why the Swiss Only Matters to Collectors

• Rarity: The "Swiss Only" designation was only present for a brief period, making these models relatively rare compared to other Submariners. This limited production run increases their collectibility and potential value.
• Historical Significance: These watches represent a transitional period in Rolex's history, marking a change in dial manufacturing and luminous material usage. This historical context adds to their appeal for collectors interested in the evolution of the brand.
• Unique Aesthetic: Some collectors simply appreciate the unique look of the "Swiss Only" dial. The absence of the "Made" portion of the "Swiss Made" inscription creates a subtle but noticeable difference that sets these watches apart.

Key Features of the 1999 Rolex Submariner

Regardless of the "Swiss Only" dial, the 1999 Rolex Submariner retains all the hallmark features that have made the Submariner a legendary timepiece. These features combine to create a watch that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, capable of withstanding the rigors of diving while still looking elegant on the wrist. This blend of form and function is a key part of the Submariner's enduring appeal, and the 1999 model is no exception.

Core Components

• Oyster Case: The Submariner's Oyster case, crafted from robust stainless steel, provides exceptional water resistance, typically up to 300 meters (1000 feet). This ensures the watch can withstand the pressures of deep-sea diving and other aquatic activities. The case is designed to protect the delicate movement inside from water, dust, and other environmental factors.
• Automatic Movement: The 1999 Submariner is powered by Rolex's caliber 3135 automatic movement, a certified chronometer known for its accuracy and reliability. This movement is a workhorse, designed to keep precise time under a variety of conditions. Its self-winding mechanism ensures that the watch remains powered as long as it is worn regularly.
• Rotating Bezel: The unidirectional rotating bezel is an essential tool for divers, allowing them to track elapsed time underwater. The bezel is marked with clear graduations, making it easy to read even in low-light conditions. Its unidirectional design prevents accidental adjustments that could lead to inaccurate time readings.
• Oyster Bracelet: The Oyster bracelet is a classic Rolex design, known for its durability and comfort. It is typically made from stainless steel and features a secure clasp. The bracelet is designed to withstand the wear and tear of daily use, making it a reliable choice for those who lead active lifestyles.
• Luminous Display: The hands and hour markers are coated with a luminous material, allowing for easy reading in dark or low-light conditions. This is particularly important for divers, who often find themselves in environments where visibility is limited. The luminous material ensures that the time can be read at a glance, even in the deepest depths.

Identifying a 1999 "Swiss Only" Submariner

Identifying a 1999 "Swiss Only" Submariner requires careful inspection of the dial and consideration of the watch's serial number. While the "Swiss Only" marking is the most obvious indicator, it's essential to verify the watch's authenticity and ensure that all other features align with the specifications of a 1999 Submariner. This includes examining the case, bracelet, movement, and other details to confirm that the watch is genuine and original.

Key Identification Points

• Dial Marking: Look for the word "Swiss" printed at the very bottom of the dial, without the word "Made." This is the primary characteristic of a "Swiss Only" dial.
• Serial Number: Check the watch's serial number, which is typically located on the case between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position. Research the serial number range for 1999 Submariners to confirm its authenticity.
• Movement: If possible, have a qualified watchmaker inspect the movement to ensure it is the correct caliber 3135 movement for a 1999 Submariner.
• Overall Condition: Assess the overall condition of the watch. While some wear and tear is expected for a watch of this age, excessive damage or modifications could indicate issues.

The Value and Investment Potential

The 1999 "Swiss Only" Rolex Submariner holds considerable value and investment potential, driven by its rarity, historical significance, and the enduring popularity of the Submariner model. As a transitional piece in Rolex's history, it appeals to collectors seeking unique and historically significant timepieces. The value of these watches can vary depending on their condition, originality, and the presence of original box and papers. However, their rarity and desirability generally translate into a strong investment for those who appreciate the nuances of vintage and collectible Rolex watches. Over time, as the supply of these watches dwindles and demand continues to grow, their value is likely to appreciate, making them a worthwhile addition to any serious watch collection.

Factors Influencing Value

• Condition: The better the condition of the watch, the higher its value. Watches with minimal wear and tear, original parts, and well-preserved dials command higher prices.
• Originality: Watches that retain all their original components, including the dial, hands, bezel, and bracelet, are more valuable than those with replacement parts.
• Box and Papers: The presence of the original box and papers significantly increases the value of the watch. These documents provide authentication and provenance, which are highly valued by collectors.
• Rarity: The "Swiss Only" designation itself adds to the rarity of the watch, making it more desirable and valuable compared to standard 1999 Submariners.

Caring for Your "Swiss Only" Submariner

Owning a 1999 "Swiss Only" Rolex Submariner is not just about owning a watch; it's about preserving a piece of horological history. Proper care and maintenance are essential to ensure that your Submariner remains in excellent condition and retains its value for years to come. Regular servicing, careful handling, and proper storage will help protect your investment and ensure that future generations can appreciate this unique timepiece.

Essential Care Tips

• Regular Servicing: Have your Submariner serviced by a qualified watchmaker every 5-7 years. This will ensure that the movement is properly lubricated and that any worn parts are replaced.
• Gentle Cleaning: Clean the watch regularly with a soft cloth to remove dirt and grime. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, as these can damage the finish.
• Water Resistance: While the Submariner is water-resistant, it's important to have the seals checked and replaced periodically to maintain its water resistance. Avoid exposing the watch to extreme temperatures or sudden changes in temperature.
• Proper Storage: When not wearing the watch, store it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and magnetic fields. Consider using a watch winder to keep the movement running and prevent the oils from drying out.

Conclusion

The Rolex Submariner 1999 "Swiss Only" is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of Rolex's commitment to quality, precision, and innovation. Its unique dial marking, combined with the Submariner's legendary design and functionality, makes it a highly sought-after timepiece for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Whether you're a seasoned collector or simply appreciate the beauty of fine timepieces, the "Swiss Only" Submariner is a watch that deserves a place in any collection. Its rarity, historical significance, and enduring appeal make it a true classic that will continue to be admired for generations to come. Owning a "Swiss Only" Submariner is not just about telling time; it's about owning a piece of history and a testament to the enduring legacy of Rolex.